FRANCE

Medieval Troyes
Historical downtown in cork shape of champagne
© CDT Aube
Third european city in the XVIIIth century, today, Troyes is a medium size plesant city, almost commun.
But it is just a facade…
Its hundreds of timber framing houses dating from the Middle Age is a unique patrimony in the world !
Frontwall with corbellings and carved beams, typical constructions dating from earlier than XVIIth century
© Praliaud/CDT







In the heart of the Champagne, Troyes, (Leading district) of Aube, has no doubt the charm of all middle size cities.
With the weird chance of history, the old Troyes looks like a cork ... of champagne.
Long before the invention of the famous wine with "bubbling foam", an expression of Voltaire, Troyes organized its center in a rectangle square lenghtened by a half-sphere following the Seine river.
If Troyes keep in its heart the “cork”, it is not only due to the close and famous vineyard.
This area is also since the Middle Age the trade place of the city, seven centuries ago.
"La ruelle des Chats" such a name because of its confined which permits the felines wandering from one house to another in one jump.
© Praliaud/CDT


Discovering the old troyes by walk is going through some interlaced paving streets bordered by a serie of authentic timber framing houses.
Confined, usually with a side entrance extended by a long hall leading to the floors and buildings’court, these houses dating from the XVIth and XVIIth centuries.
The beams are delicately carved.
Some pulleys still hang on the walls of the last floors, which used to serve for pulling the belongings.
Technical feat, some houses offer double corbellings.
Over there, “La rue des chats”, this nickname because of its narrowness.
Closer, the turret of Orfèvre, coming from a clock-and-dagger story.
A little further, the court of Mortier d’Or, topped by galeries and encircled by carved wood.
With a bit of chance, and the help of a building site, it may be possible to enter in one of these court, where dozes since five centuries, gem of the medieval architecture.
Storekeepers and companies invest in renovation. Here, rue Emile-Zola.
© Praliaud/CDT




Troyes also owes its architectural patrimony to a drama.
In 1524, a terrible fire devastated the “Bouchon”(Cork).
1000 to 3000 houses went up in smoke.
The city was wealthy : It is said that Troyes was the third europpean city at the beginning of the XIIIth century.
The famous fairs of Champagne made it successful, attracting tradespeople, financiers and bankers from all over Europe.
In the historic center, “la rue au Change” or the “rue Montée-au-Change” testify the florishing period.
After the fire, the reconstruction is quick and well done, with materials of the area : stones but mostly wood, especially oaks, which is abondant.
The city recovers its beauty. In the XVIIth century, an edict of Colbert order to coat the walls in order to avoid another fire.
The use of this coating lasts until today.
The old Troyes, beating heart of the city since the Middle Age!
© Praliaud/CDT



















Troyes offers for sure the largest concentration of houses with timber framing houses in Europe.
The records do not go back as far. But the estimation shows between 500 and 1000 houses former the XVIIth century. A minority was restored.
Recovered the beams, abandonned, transformed, when not totally destroyed, the houses so far was not really put right.
The first renovation are dating from the seventees.
The entire city take conscience of the importance of its patrimony.
Some storekeepers do the same and take care of their facades, such as Prisunic or Nouvelles Frontières, street Emile Zola.
Every where some renovation.
Some delicat pastels tints, made of natural pigments, today prefered today to the dark brown of usual half timbered houses.
Nowadays, financial helps and subventions permit the owners to restore their buildings. A large plan of protection of Troyes is occuring. The middle age city is now on out of danger.

 
 
TEXT
Isabelle Cernetic
 
_INFO PRACTICAL : Troyes and its surroundings
 
Festival de Troyes - Nuits de champagne
 
Infos Aube
 
Troyes